Planning to visit Sofia with a baby? Bulgaria’s capital, with a history spanning over 6,000 years, offers a blend of ancient heritage and modern charm. Though Sofia has evolved since joining the EU in 2007, it remains an under-the-radar destination for many travelers, and the city’s tourism infrastructure can still present challenges for families traveling with young children.
There is not a lot of information online on how to visit Sofia with a baby. Maybe families tend to wait until kids are older to travel internationally, because what you do find is plenty of suggested activities for kids that cannot be extrapolated to babies. Babies don’t need activities, they need comfort. And us, the parents, need a few utilities to care for them.
In this post, besides the typical -and more readily found- information on the main attractions to visit in Sofia, you will find details on how to plan your trip with a baby. Here’s what you need to know before bringing your little traveler along for the adventure:
- Where to sleep so that you can easily access all attractions
- How to -and how feasible it is to- move around with a stroller
- How to manage at restaurants
- Is it worth it to visit Sofia with a baby?
Contents
- Introduction
- Visit Sofia with a baby – is it worth it?
- What to do when you visit Sofia with a baby
- Moving around when you visit Sofia with a baby
- Where to sleep when you visit Sofia with a baby
- What and where to eat when you visit Sofia with a baby
Introduction
Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, is one of Europe’s oldest cities, with human habitation dating back over 6,000 years. Throughout its long history, Sofia has been influenced by various civilizations and empires, including the Romans, Bulgars, Ottomans, and Communists. This cultural diversity has shaped the city into a vibrant mix of architectural styles, traditions, and influences that are visible across its streets today.
The city’s original name was Serdica, given by the ancient Thracians who founded it. The name “Sofia” is derived from the Church of Saint Sophia, which was built in the 4th century. The church was located on a hill overlooking the ancient city of Serdica, and it became the first structure that travelers saw as they approached the city. According to local legend, people began to refer to the city as “Sofia” after the church, and the name gradually replaced Serdica over time. When the Ottomans arrived in the 14th century, they officially renamed Serdica to Sofia.
In 2007, Bulgaria joined the European Union, marking the beginning of a new chapter for Sofia. Since then, the city has seen significant efforts to modernize, improve infrastructure, and attract tourists. Despite these improvements, Sofia is still somewhat under the radar in terms of global tourism when compared to other European capitals. While the city offers plenty for history enthusiasts, art lovers, and foodies, its tourism infrastructure is still catching up. And you kind of miss it if you visit Sofia with a baby.
Bulgaria uses the Bulgarian Lev, rather than the euro. Lastly, Sofia benefits from being part of the EU Roaming Agreement.
Visit Sofia with a baby – is it worth it?
While it’s just my personal opinion, I wouldn’t recommend to visit Sofia with a baby.
Let me explain why.
First of all, starting with the activities. There is not a ton of things to do in Sofia. Once you’ve done a free walking tour and wandered a bit around the city, you’re mostly done. For us, this was perfect as we wanted to relax while still discovering a new place. Three to four days are great for that, one or two if you want to travel at a fast pace. I guess your little traveler will set your tempos!
There are some day-trips that you can do from Sofia, for example the visit to Rila Monastery or the Seven Rila Lakes hike. However, some group tour operators do not take babies, and if they do, you’ll need to consider their safety during the roadtrip and their napping schedule. If you want to complement your visit to Sofia with side activities, I believe the most comfortable option would be to rent a car and go on your own.
A main factor for us was that we visited in winter. Some activities such as hiking in the Vitosha mountain or the Seven Rila Lakes hike were out of the question because of the climate.
Besides the activities, the city is mostly not prepared for babies. Streets are not well-paved, restaurants don’t have high chairs or changing stations, most metro stations don’t have functional lifts. I will give more details on this in the next sections of the post.
What to do when you visit Sofia with a baby
Walking tours
Free walking tour
The main operator is Free Sofia Tour, which offers tours twice per day in English and a daily one in Spanish. Tours last for about 2 hours.
They cover the main historical landmarks in the city: Alexander Nevski Cathedral, the Rotunda of St. George (which is the oldest building in the city), the Presidency and the Changing of the Guard ceremony, the ancient Roman Ruins of Serdica, Banya Bashi Mosque, the Central Mineral Baths, the National Theatre Ivan Vazov, the modern Saint Sofia Monument, and the Russian Church of St. Nicholas.
Communist tour
A 3-hour-long walking tour that will depict how it was like to live on the eastern side of the Iron Curtain. It is a very complete tour in which you will learn about the theory of communism, its history in Bulgaria, and the pros and cons of the period. Topics will include World War II, religion, industry, economy, housing, culture and everyday life of the Bulgarian people.
You will be visiting former Headquarters of the Bulgarian Communist Party, Secret Police Investigation Facility, Destroyed Mausoleum, Monument of the Soviet Army, National Palace of Culture, Memorial to the Victims of the Communist Regime, among others.
This tour is not free, so check the website to get the updated price per person.
Sofia’s Jewish tour
Sofia’s Jewish tour takes you through the city’s often-overlooked Jewish heritage. From the stunning Sofia Synagogue to stories of resilience during World War II, this tour is as moving as it is informative.
Free food tour with Balkan Bites
That’s right, a tour where you’ll get free food to get a taste of the Balkans. The tour by Balkan Bites is hands-down one of the most original ways to explore Sofia. You’ll sample Bulgarian classics like banitsa and rakia while learning about the country’s food traditions.
It is recommended to book in advance as they are usually full, or to arrive early to the meeting spot.
Cultural & Historical Landmarks
Alexander Nevski Cathedral
Alexander Nevski Cathedral is one of Sofia’s most iconic landmarks and a symbol of Bulgaria’s national identity. This Orthodox cathedral was built in the late 19th century to honor the Russian soldiers who died during the Russo-Turkish War, which led to Bulgaria’s liberation from Ottoman rule.
The cathedral was mostly funded by the donations of local citizens, who yearned to have a massive and beautiful temple for their Orthodox Church. Apparently, during Ottoman rule, christian buildings could not be bigger than an Ottoman soldier on horse.
Bulevard Vitosha
Now considered the center of the city, this pedestrian street in Sofia offers restaurants, cafés or international boutiques and souvenir shops. Vibrant and yet relaxed during the day, it comes alive at night either for a quiet drink or a memorable night out.
The bonus is the picture-perfect view you’ll get of Vitosha mountain in the background.
The Red Flat
The Red Flat isn’t a usual museum – more like a time machine that takes you back to the 1980s, the final years of communist rule in Bulgaria. When you step into the flat, you’ll find yourself inside a typical Bulgarian home from that era, experiencing firsthand what life was like for regular people during the Cold War. It’s an interactive journey that gives you a glimpse into the daily realities of the time, with an audio guide to help you navigate the experience.
The visit costs 9€ per person and takes about 1.5 hours.
This is the only one I missed visiting, but the stroller wouldn’t have fit inside, and my baby on the loose would have wrecked the apartment. A good option would have been to visit with a baby carrier, but we didn’t had ours with us.
The Central Mineral Baths
Sofia sits on a rich network of underground thermal springs that have been used since Roman times. The city’s geothermal waters are known for their high mineral content, which includes sulfates, chlorides, and various salts.
Because of these thermal springs, a majestic building was built to be the public bath house of Sofia. Used by the vast majority of citizens in Sofia during great part of the 20th century, citizens went every Sunday to get their weekly bath and information on the latest developments and gossips.
It fell into disuse from the 1980s where hot water started to be available at private homes. Currently it hosts the Sofia History Museum.
The mineral water fountains outside are still used by locals. They are apparently good for heart conditions, because of their mineral composition.
Saint Sophia
Saint Sophia Church is one of Sofia’s oldest and most significant attractions. It was built in the 6th century, during the Byzantine empire, and is considered one of the finest examples of early Christian architecture in the city. The church is named after Saint Sophia, the personification of divine wisdom.
The Saint Sophia Church also gave the city of Sofia its current name, which was historically known as Serdica.
The Yellow Brick Road
The road is a significant part of Sofia’s cultural landscape and is made from distinctive yellow-colored paving stones.
Its construction is linked to the wedding of Prince Ferdinand of Bulgaria and Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma in 1893. History has it that, as a gift, Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph I sent two trains filled with the yellow bricks to Bulgaria.
In truth, the bricks were purchased with a loan that the Bulgarian government took out from Germany in the late 19th century. However, the narrative to the citizens omited this piece of information as it would have been seen as a financial burden.
Street art in Sofia
I did not have Sofia’s street art in my radar, however, we encountered a few murals and graffiti scattered across the city’s walls.
Museums in Sofia
National Archaeological Museum
The National Archaeological Museum in Sofia is one of Bulgaria’s most important museums. It offers a comprehensive view of Bulgaria’s rich archaeological heritage, from ancient civilizations (Prehistoric, Thracian, Ancient Greek and Roman, Byzantine) to the medieval period.
Sofia History Museum
A comprehensive exhibition of the city’s past and cultural heritage. It is housed in the building that used to be the Central Mineral Baths.
National Museum of Military History
It showcases the military history of Bulgaria, with focus on significant events, conflicts, and military developments. The museum also displays outdoors a collection of aircraft, tanks and different vehicles used in recent wars.
Alexander Nevski Cathedral’s crypt
The Crypt of the Alexander Nevski Cathedral in Sofia houses the largest exhibition of Ancient and Medieval Bulgarian Christian art. You will find icons, murals or artifacts that trace the development of Christian Art in these lands from its beginnings to the Renaissance period.
Museum of Illusions
A cool and different activity particularly if you have a kid or toddler as well as a baby, but fun for adults too!
Physics and optics are displayed together with mysteroius artworks and classical riddles. You’ll have several interactive activities to entertain you: drawing with a light, creating shadows or live for a while in the world upside down.
Side visits from Sofia
Vitosha mountain
The highest peak on Vitosha mountain, Cherni Vrah, soars at 2290m. It makes Sofia one of the few European capitals with such a massive peak so close to the city.
From Sofia, you can arrive to Vitosha mountain by car, bus or taxi, and it will take you from 30 minutes to 1h 30 minutes. However, once you are there you’ll need to do something to explore the mountain. Hiking is the most popular option, as there are several beautiful trails that will let you explore the nature. If you visit in winter, do consider that the mountain will be covered in snow.
Apparently a while ago some lifts were available to get up to the mountain, but they are not working anymore.
Overall it is a bit complicated with a baby, so I wouldn’t say it is an activity for families with young kids.
Monastery of Rila
UNESCO-listed monastery and one of the top activities to do while in Bulgaria. The most convenient way to arrive is by car, which would also allow you a side visit to the unofficial “junk” museum outside of Kocherinovo. Retro cars, old TV sets, photos of Lenin and hundreds of other old items.
Seven Rila Lakes hike
The most popular hike in the country, the Seven Lakes are a series of glacial lakes dating back over a million years. There is a shorter and a longer route you can hike, the shorter takes about 3 hours. The scenery is quite breathtaking.
Plovdiv
The ancient city of Plovdiv, at 120km from Sofia, is an additional side visit from the city that is generally done by bus (busexpress.bg) or train (bdz.bg).
You could also visit the Monastery of Rila, the Seven Rila Lakes hike and Plovdiv by hiring a group tour, but traveling with a baby the most feasible option would probably be to rent a car.
Moving around when you visit Sofia with a baby
Walking
In Sofia, only a few main streets are well-paved, and even then, the quality of the pavement can vary. Most of the side streets, however, are in poor condition, making it difficult to navigate with a stroller. The uneven surfaces and frequent potholes can create a bumpy and uncomfortable experience for both parents and babies.
Additionally, many of Sofia’s streets are not very well-lit, which makes it hard to see the ground clearly, especially at night. This lack of adequate lighting complicates movement a bit more.
As a result, you’ll need to be cautios and a bit slow when you move around with a stroller.
Public transport
Most metro stations in Sofia do not have elevators, and among those that do, some are not in working condition.
Despite that, the metro system along with the buses, trolleybuses and trams are very convenient overall. The payment system is also very practical, as you don’t need to buy a ticket. Instead, you can pay directly with your credit card at the entrance of the station or the vehicle.
Taxis and other private transports
A car seat is mandatory in Bulgaria until 12 years old and taxis don’t usually have them. This means that you cannot randomly get a taxi at the street but you’ll need to plan for it in advance and ask the taxi company to bring it.
It also applies to other forms of private transport such as if you were to hire a group tour.
Where to sleep when you visit Sofia with a baby
The neighbourhood
A quick search will tell you that:
- Sofia Center is the best place in general and for first-time travelers.
- Bulevard Vitosha is well-suited for young people because of the night life.
- Oborishte is recommended for families.
We stayed in Sofia Center, one minute away from the Serdika metro station and three minutes from Bulevard Vitosha. It was comfortable as we were very close to most attractions and as I told you before, moving around with a stroller was no easy task.
Even with buildings being well-isolated from the noises at the street, I would avoid being in Vitosha Bulevard because of the lights and the fact that you would be paying slightly more for commodities (restaurants, night life) that you would not use.
Regarding Oborishte, it is the next best option for families with babies. It is still very close to the main attractions (Alexander Nevski Cathedral is there) and you can find good restaurants and some ample bulevards and parks to wander.
There are other neighbourhood such as Lozenets that are cheap and peaceful and are often recommended to families. However, they are located a bit far from the center and I don’t think they are well-suited to visit Sofia with a baby.
The accommodation
In general, in Sofia there are more apartments than hotels. We stayed in an apartment because we used the kitchen to cook for our baby and also so that he could have more space to move around.
In comparison to prices in Europe, both hotels and apartments are cheap.
This will probably not apply to hotels, but it might if you stay in an apartment and particularly if it is located in the city center. Apartments have been renovated, but buildings are old. This means that some building amenities, such as lighting, elevators or common area heating might not work. The lift in our apartment did not work. It was not a major issue as we were located on the first floor. However, I would recommend that you ask your host whether the lift is functional or which floor you would be staying on.
What and where to eat when you visit Sofia with a baby
The food
Bulgarian cuisine is rich and varied, as it has diverse cultural influences, including Slavic, Ottoman, and Mediterranean. The most commonly used ingredients are yogurt and garlic.
Here’s a list of what you cannot miss to eat and drink while in Sofia:
- Banitsa: number one snack (or breakfast) usually stuffed with cheese. The best place to have it is at Sofiyska Banitsa, near the City Garden.
- Shopska salad: with actually good tomatoes, cucumber and sirene (a variant of feta) cheese.
- Lyutenitsa, bulgaria’s version of ketchup.
- Troyka kebapcheta: minced grilled meat with local spices and shaped into a long meatball.
- Tarator: cold soup with yogurt and cucumbers, to with you add garlic, dill, oil, salt and walnuts.
- Traditional Bulgarian garlic yogurt dips. Although be careful, as some of them are really spicy!
- If you have a sweet tooth, be sure to try garash cake. Baklava and honey cake are also popular options.
- Non-alcoholic drinks like ayran and boza, which are usually consumed with banitsa. Boza is quite specific and you’ll probably hate it.
- Rakia, a traditional fruit brandy.
- Bulgarian Mavrud red wine.
- Locally produced beers like Zagorka, Burgasko or Pirinsko (kind of light beers).
- Visit Women’s Market to buy local product.
Dining out with a baby
What stood out the most is that our baby was the only one we saw at restaurants. And we went to a lot of different ones, from more to less fancy, local or international. Still, no babies around. The youngest kid we saw was probably around 4.
Of course, high chairs are not available, so we used the stroller as a seat instead. There are also no changing stations for babies in restrooms or anywhere else, so you’ll need to change the baby’s nappy in a bank or table while everyone around is eating. Not ideal! And an additional reason why having a very centric apartment to which you can easily return is key.
We spoke about that with a local mom of a one-year old. She told us that babies stayed at home. Local families do not dine out with their young kids. And clearly most tourists do not visit Sofia with a baby.
We wanted to enjoy Bulgarian local cousine, and it led us to a few anecdotical situations. One was a very warm woman that despite having the restaurant fully booked and us not having a reservation, found a place for us and kept waving and smiling at our baby for the entire meal.
Another restaurant’s host spent like five minutes thinking about what to do with us. She had to speak with two additional people. The restaurant was almost empty and it was hard for us to understand her struggle. We just needed a table.
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